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One of the keys to successful children’s wear design is “proportion and fit”. Many of the problems I see in the marketplace today revolve around the 4 F’s….. “form, fit, function and fabric”. When one of these elements is translated incorrectly, the entire garment becomes out of balance. For all four of those to be translated correctly, it is imperative that they are addressed in the very beginning by using a proper “design recipe”, starting with a children’s dress form to develop a basic block (or sloper).
An industry dress form is critical if you are starting a manufacturing business. If you are a children’s wear designer or pattern maker, it is very helpful to actually “see the various lines” of a garment. These lines appear on the form as a seam; you’ll see one for the shoulder, neckline, center front, center back, armhole, waistline, side seam and inseam, along with the princess seam. Without these essential seams or markings you would have no idea where to create a waistline for a pant or a neckline for a shirt.
Once you have developed a basic block on manila pattern paper for a top or a pant you can begin to create various flat patterns for woven fabrics and knit fabrics then translating them into different styles. Having a size chart containing the “specs” and “grade rules” and a good corresponding flat pattern or block with accurate garment specs and grade rules.
Next, if you make poor fabric choices for the size range the entire garment says, “something is wrong here”. It’s similar to baking a cake; if you don’t follow the recipe and leave out the sugar or the flour, your results could be disastrous. Having a basic understanding of textiles and color theory is essential in children’s wear design.
Children’s clothing needs to be comfortable and flexible while easily meeting the needs of their daily activities. Today’s consumers are aware of trends, our environment and sustainability factors; from organic fibers and dying processes to construction and finishes.
Babies and infants have different shapes at different stages of development and their sizes start at Newborn, 3 mos.-6 mos. and 9 months; there is even a Preemie category for premature infants. When they outgrow a specific size range they move into Infant, 12-18-24 months and then Toddler sizes 2T-3T and 4T. Little girls sizes encompass sizes 4-5-6-6x and little boys sizes encompass 4-5-6-and 7. As the size ranges expand the range continues into big girls sizes 7-14 and tween and big boys extend into 8-20 along with Husky sizing.
To better understand sizing, there are international size charts produced by ASTM (originally the American Society for Testing and Materials), now referred to as the American National Standards Institute, for all children’s sizes. This is where it all starts; the size charts are a compilation of industry standards to help designers, product developers, pattern makers and companies determine their base sizes. Most professional dress forms are created from these standard size charts and are used to create all other styles. Standard Tables of Body Measurements for Children, Infant Sizes – Preemie to 24 Months (astm.org)
Some sizes correspond with the age of the child, but that is not always the case. A size 2 toddler may have the height and weight of a 1 year old or a 3 year old, but the size chart should be the determining factor.
Children are active and energetic, and become more and more active as they grow, therefore their clothing must meet those needs at every stage of growth.
The Children’s Wear Design Academy programs and the Introduction to Children’s Pattern Making course will cover size ranges in greater depth.
